Tuning your bicycle gears

gear 1Under use and stress after riding, gears lose their accuracy and rides become extremely noisy and unpleasant when your bicycle chain struggles to change between gears. With simple tools and know-how, this guide covers how to tune your front and rear derailleur to get back the accuracy and efficiency.

Common issues faced include gear shifting that is unresponsive, loud noises by the chain or the chain dropping (shifting too much and falling off the cassette.)

The following steps will help rectify:

– Making fine tuning adjustments to the front and rear derailleur

– Re-indexing the shifters. Re-indexing means tuning the distance that the derailleur moves after the gear is engaged, or after every ‘click’. This will make sure the chain is pushed enough by the derailleur to shift to a different gear without any problem.

*Do note: The tuning shown below was on a road bike with drop-style shifters. Other shifters and bikes will work similarly.


RD label

Step 1: Adjusting the index of the rear derailleur

This step will help to re-index the rear derailleur. Place your bike on a mechanic clamp or bike stand so that you are able to spin the rear wheel and change gears. Shift the rear derailleur to the smallest (outermost) gear, and the front derailleur to the biggest gear (outermost).

tune1iiNext, turn the barrel adjuster inwards all the way (clockwise). tune2Using an Allen key, turn anticlockwise to release the cable bolt on the rear derailleur, this will loosen the entire cable from the derailleur and allow you to move the derailleur manually and set the index.tune3iIn order to set the index of the rear derailleur, start pedaling gently by turning the front pedal and chain-wheel. lightly push the rear derailleur inwards until the chain shifts up to the second smallest gear.

tune4itune5iOnce the derailleur has shifted to the second gear, hold the position of the derailleur and pull the cable taught and fasten the cable bolt in place with an Allen key.tune6iDo some test shifts and shift make sure the chain is able to run smoothly on all of the rear gears/cassette.
tune7 2tune 7 2If shifting is not fully responsive, make adjustments to the barrel adjuster by turning it anticlockwise to make the cable tension higher.

Next, shift the front derailleur to the smaller chain-ring (inwards), and shift the rear derailleur to the middle gears.tune 8combTurn the barrel adjuster clockwise to slacked the cable tension.tune 9Using an Allen key, tighten the access slack cable by pulling the wire taught and tightening the cable bolt.tune 10Continue doing test shifts and ensure that the chain is able to shift up to the largest rear gear. If shifting is unresponsive, tighten the barrel adjuster in small increments. Remember to test up-shifting and downshifting with both the large and small front chain-wheel. Once the shifting is clean ad precise, you have successfully indexed your shifters!

Setting the limit adjustment

The limit screws on the front and rear derailleur act as ‘stoppers’ to prevent the derailleur from over shifting. If the derailleur over-shifts, the chain may exceed and drop of the chain-wheel. A chain drop while riding may lead to accidents, so it is essential to set the limit screws right.

(H Limit) Rear Derailleur Limit
tune 11
Step 1: Shift the front derailleur to the largest chain-wheel and the rear derailleur to the smallest gear. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise to eliminate the cable tension. 
tune13iStep 2: Pedal the bike and pull the cable wire to manually shift the chain to the second outer-most gear. While still turning the pedals, release the pull on the cable to let the chain shift back to the first outermost gear. If the shifting to the outermost gear is smooth and effective, tighten H-screw 1/4 turn clockwise and repeat the shift. Continue shifting to the second outer gear and tightening the H-screw by 1/4 turn increments until the screw has reached its limit. The limit is reached when the chain becomes too close and starts rubbing against the cog.

* Turning the screw clockwise will bring the derailleur inwards, anti-clockwise will bring the derailleur outwards. The derailleur should be inline with the outer most gear.tune 12

(L Limit) Rear Derailleur

The L screw prevents the derailleur from moving towards the innermost gear (near to the spokes). If the L limit is not set properly, the chain may over-shift and touch the spokes which may cause damage to the wheel.

Step 1: Shift the front derailleur of the bike into the smallest chain-ring and the rear derailleur to the second-innermost gear. tune 14Step 2: Similarly, pedal the bike and pull the inner wire by hand and manually shift the derailleur inwards to the innermost gear.tune 15Pull inner wire by hand to shift derailleur sprocket inward. If the gear shifting is acceptable, tighten the screw 1/4 of a turn clockwise. Continue repeating the manual shifting from the second to the most innermost gear until the screw is over-tightened. If there is a delay when shifting or the chain makes a loud rubbing noise, this means that the screw has been over tightened. Simply loosen the screw 1/4 a turn anticlockwise to set the desired L limit.

* Turning the L screw clockwise will bring the derailleur outwards, anti-clockwise will bring the derailleur inwards.

 

 

Off Road Tires

off roadForest trails, rocky gravel paths and even flights of stairs — off-road bikes allow for a large variety of places and obstacles to conquer. Mountain bike tires themselves are specifically designed for off road riding and have vastly different features compared to road tires. They have distinct raised knobs or “lugs” that are designed to dig into loose material and provide grip on different terrain.

Mountain bike tires provide relatively low rolling resistance (on loose gravel roads), ample grip and provide a good level of cushioning that will enhance the quality of your ride. The steps to caring for mountain bike tires and road tires are almost similar, including changing the inner tube.

Also covered are the different types of wheel sizes available, so if you’re new to mountain biking this post may make choosing your wheel size an easier process.

Wheel Size800-600.71d5c14d1314158d4a007010ab17342faac879bf_lfyc_36_lfyc1_t.ff64beA 26″ Aleoca RTDS Full-Sus mountain bike

Mountain bike wheels used to come only in 26″ in the past (diameter of the wheel in inches), but after plenty of development and introduction, there are now 27.5″ and 29″ options available and each size has it’s on pros and cons.

26″ Wheels and Tires

The traditional wheel size, a smaller diameter rim with shorter spokes mean 26′ wheels are able to be made lighter and more responsive than other sizes. This also means faster acceleration on smooth surfaces. Plenty of Aleoca models currently use 26″ wheels, ranging from normal hard-tails to higher end full suspension bikes.

Being the oldest wheel size around, it is very easy to find 26″ accessories like tires and tubes. Plenty of models with 26″ are also readily available for choice.

27.5″ (650b) and 29″ 

Both of these new wheel sizes offer a slightly different feel while riding. 27.5″ wheels are able to roll over rough ground more smoothly and grip better than 26″ equivalents. 29″ wheels, significantly larger, are slow during acceleration but are able to hold fast speeds much better. Given the larger wheel size, they are also able to overcome obstacles faster and with more stability.

The sudden introduction of these new sizes do mean that accessories and parts for 27.5 and 29″ wheels may not be so readily available at all stores. Models of bicycles with these new sizes may also be lesser to find.

Adjusting to the right tire pressure

As mentioned for road tires, good tire pressure is important as they provide good traction and strong grip on the roads during riding. Especially for off-road terrain, a well-inflated tire will grip better on loose and uneven surfaces. As off-road tires are much larger, the pressure(p.s.i) required is much lesser compared to road tires.

If you ride a bike with mountain bike tires for normal commute riding on pavement, keeping the tires at the recommended pressure (e.g. 50 psi) will make rolling smooth and fast. However, if you’re a mountain biker who rides plenty of rugged off-road trails, lowering the psi slightly to around 40 psi may make it might feel better on the bumpy track. Do not deviate too much from the tire range as this over or under pumping too much may increase the chances of punctures.mtb tireChecking for wear marks

Depending on the usage and terrain, always inspect your tire threads or lining for any wear or cuts. These may increase the risk of the tube puncturing. If you often ride trails, make it a habit to clean your tires

Replacing a tubetubeeAs there are different wheel sizes available, ensure that the tube you get is of the correct wheel size. With a pair of tire levers, the steps to change a tire (road or off-road tire) can be found here.

 

Beginners Guide: How to use bicycle gears

gearBicycle gears allow riders to change their cadence to a comfortable pace and also tackle different types of terrain. The power from your pedal strokes goes into the front crank set, which then drives the rear cogs (gears) and wheel via the bicycle chain. Choosing the right gears at the front and the back will allow to to climb hills comfortably, and ride on flat roads and descend efficiently according to your pace and comfort.

Modern bicycles come with plenty of different types of gear systems. Some have two to three large gears in front and anywhere from 7 to 11 smaller gears at the back. The number of teeth each gear has also comes in plenty of different combinations.

In order to learn how to shift gears efficiently, here are the parts of the group-set that allow shifting to happen. (It is essential to know these parts for fine-tuning)gear cover

Front Derailleur – Shifts the gears on the front chainwheelFD LabelRear Derailleur – Shifts the gears on the rear cassetteRD label

How Shifters work:

Gear shifters work under the tension of the cable that runs from the levers to the derailleur. When you push or pull (or twist) on the shifter levers, the ‘click’ sound heard is the indexing feature on the shifter. Each time the lever clicks, it has selected another gear.

Indexing means that the shift lever will not over shift (shift too much), or under shift the bike (shift too little). It has been calibrated to move the front or back derailleur just enough to the left or right to lift or drop the chain exactly one gear at a time. The chain is moved to different gears by the derailleur. The derailleur has large springs inside that apply tension to the cables. When you push or pull the shift levers, it tightens or relives tension on the spring, causing the chain to move up a gear or down a gear.

Over time and heavy use, this accuracy of indexing may deviate and hence will require some fine tuning. When shifting starts becoming rough, noisy or when the chain skips or exceeds the desired gear, it is time to fine tune and re-index the shifters.

Types of shifters

There are many different types of shifter levers that are suited for different types of riding.index

Thumb shifters can be found on mountain and hybrid bikes. Shown above is a Microshift road thumb shifter (left) and a Tourney thumb shifter used on a mountain bike (right).  They are easy to use especially on normal flat handlebars. Pushing either one of the levers/buttons will shift the chain up or down. Indicators like numbers (1-7) or alphabets ( L – H) also show which gear is selected. index 2 Grip shifters are more compact as there are no extra levers or buttons required to shift. Grip shifts make use of your wrist and a twist action to increase or drop to a different gear. These grip shifts will include markings or an indicator to display the gear that corresponds to each twist. Grip shifts are commonly used on mountain bikes as shifting is easier and reactive.

For gripshifts, an indexed grip shift will make a ‘click’  sound when it is twisted. Non-index grip shifts will simply twist all the way until you physically feel the derailleur shift the chain to a different gear.index 3Commonly found on road bikes, the shifter levers are integrated with the brake levers and are mounted on drop handlebars. By pushing different paddles, these shifters allows the rider to shift even when he holds different hand positions on the bars.

Choosing the correct gear

The left shifter will control the front chainwheel and the right shifter will control the gearing on the back. Choosing a bigger front chain-ring will make pedaling harder. A smaller front chain-ring will make pedaling easier. On the other hand, a bigger gear/cog at the back will make pedaling easier, whereas a smaller gear at the back will make pedaling harder.

Changing the gears at the back eases your pedaling effort incrementally. Changing gears in the front chain-rings will result in a more noticeable change—pedaling feels easier in a smaller chain-ring and harder in a bigger one. climbing

For: Uphills and climbing
– Use a small or middle front chain-ring + bigger rear cogs for an easier effort uphill

For: Fast speeds or downhills
– Use a large front chain-ring + a range of rear cogs to hold speed better.

For: Flat terrain and easy pace
– Use a small or middle front chain-ring + ­smaller rear cogs to pedal at a comfortable and easy pace.

As much as possible, avoid crossing the chain. Chain crossing occurs when you pair the biggest front gear with the biggest rear gear and the smallest front gear with the smallest rear gear. Cross chaining places stress on the chain and may wear the gears faster.cross chain

Since gears work via cable tension that is activated by the shifters, when you change gears, try to relax your pedaling and avoid applying a great force on the pedal. This will not put so much stress on the gears and cables while shifting and will not cause any strain or damage.

After practice and several rides, changing your gears to set a comfortable pace and suit the terrain will come very easily. To determine the signs or sounds that indicate poor gear shifting that requires tuning, check out our how-to guide for gear tuning here.

 

 

Road Tires

Aleoca-3Coming in different thicknesses and material, in general road tires are thinner and allow you to roll at a faster speeds with lesser rolling resistance.

Tires have gone through plenty of development since their initial use plenty of years ago. The three types of tire systems used today are clinchers, tubular and tubeless tires. In our Wheels & Tires post, we will cover tips on clincher tires as they are most commonly used in all types of riding. Clincher tires have a wire bead that holds their shape and fits in a hook on the rim to hold them in place.

Listed below are a few things you should take note of in order to maintain the condition of your road tires and also a quick guide to how you can replace a punctured inner tube.

Good Tire Pressure

Well inflated tires are important as they provide good traction and strong grip on the roads during riding. A well inflated tire will also eliminate and reduce the risk of punctures. Having a tire pressure that is too low will increase the chances of a pinch flat puncture and it may also cause damage to your rims.

The recommended tire pressure for each tire is usually written on the tire. Try not to deviate from this range too much even though there is no exact specified value. The units PSI, stand for pounds per square inch. Some tires may have their pressure limit written in Bar units.

As a general guideline, road tires will require 80 to 130 psi ; mountain tires 30 to 50 psi.

TireThe pressure limit (100 – 130 PSI) written on an Innova Pro Nunki Race tire, commonly used on the carbon racer bikes.

Inspecting for signs of wear

The lifespan and condition of tires will depend heavily on your frequency of use and also the terrain of your rides. Riding on over-worn tires with small tears or cuts can be dangerous and may lead to a higher risk of punctures while riding, that is why it is recommended to inspect your tires occasionally before and after every ride.

tire cuttt

Small cuts and tears like these(above) may allow tiny road debris to enter and cut the inner tube, causing a puncture. When the tire thread patterns start to fade, this is also a sign to replace your tire as it starts to lose it’s grip.

Replacing a punctured inner tube

A tiny cut in the inner tube will slowly leak and become unusable for riding. Although patch kits are available (consist of a rubber sealant), when a puncture happens on the road, it is an essential skill to know how to remove and replace the inner tube of your bike wheel. All that is required are simple tools and the know-how:

Things you need:

– Tire Levers (A pair)

– A new inner tube

Step 1: Loosening the valve

Most road bike tubes will make use of a Presta Valve. Presta valves have an extra bolt that locks and prevents air from escaping. First remove the tire cap of the valve by turning it anticlockwise. After removing the cap, turn the presta bolt anti clockwise to allow air to escape. (Remove the wheel off your bike so that it is easier to remove the tube)

Press downward on the presta valve to allow the tire to deflate completely. This will make it easier to remove the tire and tubing later on.

tube1i

Step 2: Removing the outer tire

Once the tube is fully deflated, the outer tire is free moving and ready to be removed. The following steps may be tricky for first time users, but after practice, the use of tire levers will become second nature.

Push one of the tire levers into the rim and under the tire. With a ‘scooping’ action, pry the tire outwards and out of the rim.

tube 3Scoop the tire out of the rim wall and hold the tire lever in place.

With one segment of the tire(first tire lever) off the rim, now use the second tire lever and do the same with another segment of the tire. Make sure the second tire lever is inserted near to the first lever.tube 4ii

tube 5i

(Both tires levers held in place)

Next, hold the first tire lever firmly in place. (some tire levers may have a hook to hold onto the spokes). Push the second lever away from the first lever and around the entire circumference of the rim. This will force out and remove the rest of the tire. (This step may also require some force for tires that are well fitted.)tube 6ii

With half of the tire now seeded halfway out of the rim, remove the deflated inner tube from the wheel. Pull it upwards at the valve area and remove the rest from the rim.tub7tub7itub7ii

As an extra precaution, with the inner tube removed, take this time to inspect the inside of the tire for any cuts or sharp objects. To do so, run your hands (or a cloth) along the inside of the tire to remove any dirt or feel for any potential cuts.
tube 8

3. Replacing a new inner tubetubeeEnsure that your new inner tube is of the right size and circumference (700C for road tires). If you are using wheels with a high profile (deep aero wheels), make sure that the valve length of the inner tube is long enough to go through the entire rim.

Before inserting the new tube, inflate it slightly to give it some shape. This will make it easier to fit back into the tire.  Insert the new tire valve into the hole in the rim, ensure that the valve enters and remains straight. tub9

Fit the rest of the tube into the tire gradually and ensure that there are no bends or twisting of the inner tube.tub10itub11This process is easier with some tire/rim combinations than others. Make sure that the tube is seeded in the middle of the tube and that it is not exposed or pinched by the outer tire.

To get the last portion of the tyre back on the rim, you may use the tire levers the opposite way to push the tire bead into middle channel of rim and in place. This may require some strength for tires that are tighter.tub12

Once the tire is pushed back into the rim, inflate to the specified PSI range and check for any unevenness or hops on the tire surface. Tighten the Strada valve lock in place and place the valve cap back on the tire valve once inflated.

In conclusion, always remember to check your tire pressure, inspect your tires regularly and carry a spare tire kit with you when you ride! *Do note that it is normal for all tires to lose their pressure slightly after a few days (even without riding).

When riding on wet roads on rainy days, be more careful when cornering and brake earlier to avoid your tires skidding.

 

Saddle height and angle

sad123Aside from your frame and your handlebars, the set-up of your saddle is the key for comfort and staying injury free. The height and angle of your saddle will greatly affect your cycling performance and enjoyment. Regardless of what type of bike you ride, the saddle height and angle need to be correctly setup to your riding style.

The following tips will teach you how to adjust your saddle height, angle and also the fore and aft. For serious riders who aim to have optimum performance, we would suggest a proper bike fit and also more detailed fine-tuning. The following guides are more generic for all different types of riders.


Saddle Angle

The saddle angle (also called tilt) can affect how much pressure is asserted on your knees, groin and lower back.

The saddle should be level to the ground. This will prevent you from sliding forward or backward during riding. A saddle that is pointed downwards will place more stress on the knees whereas a saddle tilted upwards may cause discomfort on the groin and also lower back pain.sad4iTo determine if a saddle is level, make sure that your bike is placed on a level floor. Place a flat object (hard book or board) over the saddle and place a level measure on it. Alternatively, if the saddle design is relatively flat, you may put the level measure directly on the saddle.sad5i

To make adjustments to the saddle level, use an Allen key to loosen the saddle clamp bolt that is usually found below the saddle.sad6iAlways make small and precise adjustments when adjusting the saddle level, as a few degrees can cause a very drastic change in riding style.

If a perfectly level saddle feels uncomfortable to you, fine tune it to suit your riding style. Small degrees of upward or downward angles are acceptable.

Saddle Height

The saddle height of your bicycle will affect your pedal efficiency and power. As a guide for all general riders (leisure to sporty), here is a simple method that you can use to set the correct saddle height.

Most mountain and hybrid bicycles may use quick release seat clamps. These clamps make it easier to make adjustments to your saddle as you do not require extra tools.sad7isad7iiFor other models, the seat-clamp may require an Allen key or screwdriver to loosen.sad8

To determine the right saddle height, you may require a mirror or a friend to help observe your leg position while you mount your bike. You could also use your phone to capture your position after making adjustments.

The saddle height should be adjusted to the point that your leg is almost straightened during the downward pedal stroke. Alternatively, a recommended 25°-30° angle will suffice for beginners.

sad10

Saddle Fore and Aftsad10iThe fore and aft position of your saddle affects how close you are seated towards the handlebars. This affects your balance and also the degree that your leg bends during the pedal-stroke.

One common method used to determine saddle fore and aft position is the knee over pedal axle position.

Similarly, you will require an extra friend or helper to help observe and measure your leg position.

Step 1: First, sit on the bike with the crank arms parallel to the ground, (3 o’clock and 9 o’clock position.) Your bike can be set on a stationary trainer or you could have somebody holding it upright for you.

Step 2: Using a string tied with a weight at the bottom, place the string at the front of your forward kneecap and see where the weighted string hits in relation to the pedal axle. The weighted string should intersect the pedal axle when hanging from your knee.

If it falls in front, adjust the saddle backwards. If it falls behind, adjust the saddle forward. Always make adjustments in small increments.
sad11i Although the knee over pedal axle method is straightforward and easy to do, it does not take into account your individual body type, flexibility or pedaling style. Hence, if you ever feel any discomfort after making changes, you may want to consult a proper bike fitter or expert for advice.

 

 

 

Handlebar Adjustments

Allowing you to steer and have control while riding, your handlebars are one of the three important contact points during cycling (the other two being the saddle and pedals)

This short post will cover some of the different types handlebars available and also how to tighten and set up handlebars correctly.

Flatbars

More commonly used on mountain and hybrid style bicycles are normal flat/straight handlebars. Flatbars offer a comfortable and upright riding position and are good for all purpose general riding. They are commonly made out of aluminium alloy however carbon flatbars are also produced for extra stiffness. Flatbars also allow the rider to mount plenty of different accessories on them, like lights, bells, cycling devices.HB1HB3i

A flat-bar with bar-end grip attachments at the ends (above)

Riser Bars

Riser bars are similar to flat bars except that they rise from the center clamp area to the sides. Risers are also typically wider than flat bars. This allows the rider to have a more upright position and hence is more comfortable for casual commute and easy riding. Riser bars can be found on mountain, hybrid, kids and also city bikes.

Hb5An Aleoca mountain bike using a steel riser handlebar

Drop-Bars

On most road bicycles, drop-bars are selected for their lower profile that allow the rider to get more aerodynamic. Drop handlebars also provide more different hand positions during riding. The rider is able to hold the hoods (the top of the drop-bar), the flats (the straight segment) and for more aggressive riding, the drops (the lower curved ends of the bar).

Higher performance drop-bars are made out of carbon fiber as this makes them lighter, stiffer and easier to mold into different aerodynamic shapes.

HB2A carbon fiber aero drop-bar on a Vento-X race bikeHb4iiAn aluminium drop bar used by the Kenyan Riders Professional Team

Plenty of other handlebars include bullhorn bars, aero-extensions, track bars and many others. The bars listed above are more commonly used on most models as they are more suited the general riding. The following steps listed below will include:

– How to adjust your handlebar and stem

– Correcting a lose and wobbling fork


Step 1: Adjustments to the handlebar

The bolts holding the handlebar onto the stem must be loosened in order to adjust the handlebar. The bolts must be loosened/tightened  in a proper manner to ensure even clamping. Always loosen/tighten the screws in an alternate manner as shown in the diagram below.hb6i

With the stem face plate loosened, ensure that the handlebars are level.  hb7iOnce the handlebar is level, tighten in the same manner (alternate screws) to ensure even fastening of the bar. The handlebar should not be pointed upwards or downwards.

Step 2: Adjustments to fork wobbling/stem alignment

To test for fork wobbling, firmly press the front brakes and push the handlebars forward. If the front fork wobbles while doing this, the stem cap bolt needs to be tightened. Fork wobble could lead to accidents and should be corrected immediately.

Using an Allen Key, turn the stem bolt anti clockwise to loosen the entire fork and stem. This step will also allow you to align the stem with the front wheel.

hb8iIn order to move the stem for alignment, turn anticlockwise to loosen the two bolts that hold the stem and fork in place. The screws are on opposite sides of each other.hb9iTo eliminate fork wobble, check that the stem and the spacers are set evenly in place. Re-tighten the two bolts on the stem after the alignment has been adjusted.hb10i

Lastly, tighten the top stem bolt clockwise. This will pull the bottom fork upwards to secure the stem in place and eliminate any fork wobble.hb11

Points to note:

– Always use a Torque Wrench when working with carbon components. (Carbon stem and carbon handlebars) A Torque Wrench is a fastening tool that precisely applies a specific torque to a fastener such as a nut or bolt. Most components usually have indicators as to how tight they should be fastened. (6Nm, 8Nm etc.)

– Test for fork wobble or lose components before riding outdoors. If ever unsure, have your bike checked by a proper mechanic or give our hotline a call for assistance.

Frame Size: Getting the perfect fit

Kenyan Riders 1Whether you ride a road, hybrid or mountain bike – it is always recommended to get a frame size that suits your height and size. Having a fitting frame size will allow you to optimize your cycling performance and will ensure you comfort when you spend time in the saddle.

If you’re in the process of searching for a new bike, the following tips will help you identify the appropriate frame sizes of different types of bicycles to give you that perfect fit.

Before that, it’s also key to understand the common parts and measurements that are used for general bicycle frames.Frame LabelsMost bicycle manufacturers will use the Seat Tube value as the size of the bike. (e.g. 48cm, 51cm frame). The measurements for different tubings are taken from center-to-center unless otherwise stated. Also bear in mind that road and mountain bike frames have different geometries and may also use different units of measurement. (inches or cm).

1. Measurement Charts

Based on your height and measurement of your inseam (inside of your leg), you will be able to get an estimated frame size for different types of bikes.Chart 1iChart 2Chart 3

2. Calculation MethodhumanAlternatively, this calculation method only requires you to measure the length of your inseam (the insides of your leg from the groin) and multiply it with different factors.

For Road Bike Frames,  simply take your ( Leg Inseam) x (0.66) = frame size in cm.

For Mountain Bike Frames, take your ( Leg Inseam) x (2.54) = frame size in cm.

*Disclaimer, the calculations are a theoretical and an estimated frame size based on your height and a general factor. Do allow some deviation when using this method*

3. Standing over Top Tube

Lastly, the simplest way to gauge whether or not a bike is suitable, is to stand over the top tube. This simply makes use of your inseam length (similar to the above mentioned charts) but instead gives you a physical gauge to determine whether or not a frame is too big for you.

If you are able to stand above the frame with 1-3 cm of clearance from the top tube to your groin, the bike is of an acceptable size.

If ever unsure, always consult a proper bike salesperson/mechanic for tips on getting the right frame size. To find out how your other bike components should be set up, click here.

 

 

The Guide to Caliper Brakes

calliper

Caliper brakes are more commonly used on road bikes. They are self-contained mechanisms, attached to the bicycle’s frame by a single bolt for each brake, both front and rear. The arms reach downward from above the tire, and are long enough to get around the tire and reach the braking surface.

Caliper brakes are activated by cable tension and pull. They are relatively easier to adjust and tune, and are also more durable than conventional V-brakes.

CB 1A front caliper brake on an Aleoca Carbon Vento Series bike

Caliper brakes can be linked to different types of brake lever systems. On high performance road bikes that use drop-style handlebars, the caliper brake levers are usually integrated with the gear shifters. Shown below is an integrated drop brake lever.CB lever 3On hybrid road bicycles using flat handlebars, normal brake levers are usually used.CB lever 3 ii

Parts of caliper brakes:CB Label 1i

Cb Label 2iCb Label 3iThe following guide will help with:

– Adjusting brake pad position

– Caliper Brakes loosing tension

– Centering Brakes


Step 1: Checking brake pad alignment

Before making adjustments to the caliper tension, first check the brake pad’s alignment with the rim.

Open the quick release lever of the caliper. This makes the caliper arms open wider and also allows you to remove the front wheel for other tuning purposes (wheel truing, cleaning etc.). Opening this release will provide you with more space to adjust the brake pads.Cb 4The image below shows a brake pad that is out of alignment and rubbing on the tire.Cb 5i wrong brakeTo adjust the brake pad position, use an Allen key and turn the brake shoe bolt anticlockwise.Cb 6

With the brake shoe bolt loosened, apply pressure to the brake arms onto the rim with support on both sides (so that rim does not lose center). After finding the right brake position, turn clockwise to pre tighten the brake shoe bolt.Cb 7Hold the brake pad individually and tighten clockwise and ensure it does not shift during tightening. An aligned brake pad should look like this: Remember to close the quick release once adjustments have been complete.Cb 8 corrects

Step 2: Adjusting the cable tension

This step will allow you to make adjustments to increase the tension to make your brakes more sensitive.

For minor adjustments, tuning the barrel adjuster will be sufficient to tune the brakes.

For major adjustments (if brake levers must be depressed all the way), the tension is too lose and the cable wire needs to be pulled to make the brakes more effective.

Barrel Adjuster (Minor adjustment)

The barrel adjuster allows small tension adjustments to be made. It is usually found at the top of caliper brakes and is connected to the cable housing.

The barrel adjuster can be turned clockwise and anticlockwise to increase or decrease the cable tension.Cb 9Turning the barrel adjuster anticlockwise (upwards), will bring the brake pads closer to the rim.

Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise (downwards), will bring the brake pads further away from the rim.Cb 9ii

 

 

Increasing Cable Length (Major adjustment)

For major adjustments to cable tension, you will require an Allen key to change the length and tension of the cable.

Loosen the bolt that is holding the cable by turning it anticlockwise. This bolt is found near the quick release lever.cb 10

Once unscrewed, use your hand to manually depress the caliper brakes evenly. Bring both brake pads to the desired position. There should be even spacing between both sides of the brake pad.Cb 11Cb 12Hold the brake calipers at the desired position and tighten the cable bolt by turning it clockwise. Cb 13

Test the sensitivity of the brakes to determine if the cable tension is sufficient or too much. As a guide, it is recommended that the brakes should be engaged when the levers are depressed half way. This will affect your braking time needed when slowing down during riding.

Cb 14 lever check

Step 3: Fine tune adjustments 

Centering Screw

Tuning the centering screw on caliper brakes will make finer adjustments to the brake calipers. It is important for the brakes to be center so that braking will occur evenly on both sides.

Different models and manufacturers may have centering screws on different parts of the caliper. Some screws may require a Phillips head screwdriver and others may require an Allen key to adjust. centering csrewCb 16i

View the brake pads from the center of the rim. If the right brake pad appears closer to rim, tighten (clockwise) the centering screw.

If the left brake pad appears closer, loosen (anti-clockwise) the centering screw.

Cb 15i

 

Always make small adjustments at a time and observe the change in the brake pad positions. Being precise will result in more even and safer braking.

Check that all bolts have been fastened and that your brakes are in tip-top condition before going out for your ride!

 

 

 

 

Drum Brake Adjustments

Drum levelOne of the less common brake systems used today, drum brakes provide a gentler but weaker braking effect compared to disc and other caliper-type brakes. Drum brakes require easier and less maintenance as they are completely contained and protected from external elements like water and dust.

Drum brakes can be found on utility and city bicycles, and are more common in other countries. Aleoca’s 24″ Steel City bike features a rear drum brake that is visually appealing and at the same time provides very gentle braking for it’s slow speed cruising in urban areas.

Although the stopping power of drum brakes are lesser, it is important to ensure that the brakes function properly and are able to slow the bicycle down efficiently.Drum 1

Drum 1 iiA drum brake on the rear wheel of a city bike

Parts of a drum brake:drum 2How they work:drum 3When the brakes are engaged, the brake cable pulls the arm forward and compresses the tension spring. The movement of the arm pulls the brake lining ribbon to rub against the internal drum. This ribbon causes friction which in turn slows and prevents the wheel from spinning.

The following simple steps will help rectify:

– Drum brakes with poor stopping power.


Step 1: Loosening cable bolts

Before any cable adjustments, make sure the bolt on the cable housing is loosened as shown below:drum 5Loosening the cable bolts will allow the cable tension of the drum brake to be adjusted. To do so, use a spanner (different size spanners available) and turn the bolt anti-clockwise.drum 4 ii

 

Step 2: Adjusting cable tension

drum 6

To increase the tension of the drum brake (make it more effective), pull the excess cable outwards, and at the same time press the caliper arm and compress the tension spring inwards.

To determine how much cable tension is sufficient, pre-tighten the cable bolt and test the brake sensitivity. As a gauge, the drum brakes should activate when the levers are around halfway depressed. There is no fixed indication however the brake tension must be sufficient enough to bring the bicycle to a stop when rolling.pressOnce the length of brake cable is determined, tighten the cable bolt back in place.

Drum 7 loosenAlso make sure to re tighten the cable housing bolt after making adjustments.

Make sure that all bolts have been fastened properly and also test the effectiveness of the drum brakes before riding.

Setting your V-Brakes right

V Brake labelV brakes, also called ‘direct pull’ brakes, rely on the upward pulling of the brake cables to pull the brake pads into contact with the rim. Commonly found on most mountain bikes, it is important to tune the tension of both sides of the V brake, so that even braking occurs from both sides of the brake pads. Vb 2i(Left) Shows a V-brake on an Aleoca foldable bike, (Right) on a hard tail mountain bike.

This post will list the different parts of a V-Brake and also include step by step instructions on how to tune and maintain your V-Brakes.

Parts of a V-BrakeVB 1How they work: 

Common issues with disc brakes is that overtime, the tension adjustment becomes uneven and hence either side of the brake pad starts rubbing on the edge of the rim. V-Brakes may also lose their cable tension which will cause a loss in braking power.

Vb 3(Left) Shows the right brake pad rubbing against the rim. (Right) The frontal view easily shows the V-Brake unevenly slanted to the left.

The following step by step guides with images will help you:

– Adjust the brake pads properly

– Adjust the cable wire

– Set the tension adjustment for both sides of the brake


Step 1: Opening the V-Brake

This step allows you to remove the wheel (if necessary for other tuning), and will make adjusting the brake shoes in later steps easier.

Vb 4Press both brake arms fully with one hand so that both brake pads touch the rim. Using the other hand, unhook the brake cable out of the noodle holder by pulling it outwards of the holder. Once the brake cable is removes, you may release both brake arms. The brake arms will now be able to spring outwards more which will make adjusting the brake pads easier.

Step 2: Adjusting the Brake Shoe position

This step makes sure the brake shoes are in line with the rim, so that braking is consistent and effective.

Vb 5The image above shows a brake pad that is out of alignment.

Before making any adjustments to the brake pad, first ensure that it has been assembled in the correct position:Vb6iiThe brake shoe should also be assembled in the following manner on the brake arms. Take note of the direction of the rounded bolts of the brake arm.
Vb 7Vb 8To loosen the brake pad for alignment, use an Allen key and turn it anti-clockwise to loosen the block screw to allow movement. Alight the brake pad so that it does not touch the tire and is perfectly touching the rim.

It is important to apply pressure to the brake arms onto rim with support on opposite side (so that rim does not lose center). At the right position, turn clockwise to pre-tighten (do not tighten fully) the block screw.

After pre-tightening the brake shoe, hold the brake pad individually and tighten it by turning clockwise. When tightening, ensure that the brake pad does not shift and lose it’s position.

Step 3: Adjusting the cable wire

This step will help tune the sensitivity and engagement of the brake levers by adjusting the cable wire.

First, hook back the cable noodle (opposite of Step 1). Unscrew the cable clamp screw by turning anti-clockwise using an Allen Key. Vb 9Pull the cable wire outwards and taught. Pre-tighten it slightly in order to test the sensitivity of the brake lever engagement.

To determine how much cable wire needs to be pulled taught, depress and observe the engagement of the brake levers. As a gauge, the brake levers should not be able to be depressed all the way. It is recommended that the brakes should be engaged when the levers are depressed half way.Vb 11

Vb 12Once the cable is pulled to it’s desired length, tighten the bolt screw by turning it clockwise to hold the cable in place. Do not over tighten the screw as this may damage the cable wire.

Step 4: Adjusting the spring tension

This final step will involve adjusting the tension screws to balance both sides of the V-Brakes.

Tightening/loosening the tension screws will make each side of the brake spring back farther (outwards) or nearer (inwards). Before adjustments, determine whether the spring holder (where the screw sits) for your bicycle model are made out of plastic or metal.

If it is made out of plastic, the tension rod must be unhooked before tightening the screw. This helps prevent wear to the threads during adjustment.Vb 13i

Vb 14 new

Tightening the screw clockwise will increase the spring tension, and will make the brake pad spring outwards.

Loosening the screw anticlockwise will decrease the spring tension, and this will make the brake pad move inwards.

Adjust the tension on both sides so that the brake pads are evenly spaced and move equally when the brakes are applied.

A properly adjusted and evenly balanced V-brake should look like this: Vb 15

Always remember to fasten all parts securely and test your brakes before going out for a ride!